Well I am through Haute Loire and on my way through Lozere.  We have been getting a lot of rain so I have been staying in hotels ra ther than hostels, which open later and don't give enough time to dry clothes.  The exceptions have been farm hostels which have been great.  One of the great aspects of this is the camaraderie as people get to know each other and compare notes.

I have posted a picture separately.  It is thought to be a Templar post that has gone through many phases until now it is a coop hostel run and supplied by 26 farm families in the neighborhood.  A beautiful place with amazing food.

I have been going much slower than planned - shin splint - so will soon leap south to walk the last 100 km before St. Jean.

Le Sauvage

I'm posting from Saugues, a very nice little town of 2K mid way through the highest climb on this part of the Camino, 500 metres yesterday over a 13 km hike, another 330 metres tomorow over 20 km.  It is interesting to see the effects of generational change in this part of the world.  Every hamlet and village I passed through had homes, farms and shops for sale and this town has many stores closed.  Kids moving to the city.

However, the Way of Ste. Jacques is reviving things quite a bit.  Lots of pellerin on the roads, many special events and attractions, and in a town this size, a shop with a knowledgeable owner that was a regular shoe store doing not too much business that now has half the store dedicated to hiking equipment of high quality and propering.  The way marking is very good but you have to be careful; the Ste Jacques path is newly marked with yellow/gold marks and signs but there is another system of hiking trails with similar marks.  best to watch for both the Camino marks and the GR65 white and red marks as well.

Also, to my surprise, a 13th century church with an altar to Ste Noel Chabanal, one of the Canadian Martyrs, who was born here.

Hints for those contemplating a similar journey:  bring 2 MEC super absorbant towels, one for you and 1 for squeezing laundry, it is hard to get things dry.  Bring a light cup or water bottle in addition to a hydration system, lots of potable water but the fountains are constructed in such a way that you need a cup.  I brought a few energy bars to help me keep going these first few days and I am very glad I did.

Dentelle and Lentilles

A beautiful day in Le Puy en Velay.  I spent most of it walking about to see the sights and clear my head after the long trip.  I visited Saint-Michel d'Aiguilhe (www.rochersaintmichel.fr), a chapel on a high basalt pillar, reminiscent of Meteora.

The two regional specialities seem to be lace, workshops, galleries, and lessons everywhere, and lentils, a vqriety grown locally and cooked with local recipes - delicious.

There is a strong push to develop the pellerin market at the cathedral so I went for a cafe and welcome, both fun - recommended if you come through here.

Tomorow I walk.

You will be able to follow my pilgrimage on this gps page:


http://share.findmespot.com/shared/faces/viewspots.jsp?glId=0pWcQmqWTsz9YqkrGXakHmWPDEvbgFG8D

I'm off then, to quote the title of  Hape Kerkling's memoir of the Camino.  It is the best book of its type I have read.  I have finished my preparation with 4 days on the Ridge Road trail in the Gatineau Park.  I wasn't able to last for the 6 hours, 25 km that was my target but it went ok.  I will probably be a 20 km per day guy and bus or train over a couple of hundred kms during my walk.

I leave Ottawa Sept. 19, get to Le Puy on the 20th, spend the 21st initiating things and getting the cobwebs out, and set off on the 22nd.

I will do my best to keep up progress reports and observations as I go along.

I want to thank everyone who encouraged and contributed, especially:

• my family for the poles, the pack, the time and the love;
• Nancy, Dan and Jessie for the ear plugs and shell;
• Bob and Jan for the chocolate;
• Ailsa for the laundry kit;
• my friends in Faith and Light and the OMI lay associates for their prayers;
• Father Robert for the gentle teasing;
• and everyone for their patience with my focusing on preparation.