The Sea

Well, I made it to Finesterre, the end of the world and the end of my Camino. Here are a couple of photos from yesterday.
I want to apologize to those who followed this blog when I was contributing regularly ( sort of ). Somewhere along the Way I started finding it harder to analyse and more natural and helpful to observe and absorb without jumping to a more critical stance. Now, this is something I have been urged to do by several folks but have never succeeded in doing so I was very glad that it happened. I will do my best to go back over the experience and post some of my thoughts in the next month or two. Until then thank you for your encouragement.

Meseta

I have been holding off reflecting on the Meseta because my feelings keep changing.  Brierly calls it ¨Sublime¨  in his guide book.  Most of the pilgrims I have spoken with called it boring.  On the whole I side with Brierly.  It is like all the great Bread Baskets I suppose, certainly it took me back to Saskatchewan when I worked there.  If anyone has experience outdoors in Ukraine or Argentina it would be great to hear views.
One thing I noticed walking, in comparison to riding on a rail cart, is that places don´t approach, they almost seem to recede like a mirage.  A town you think will take half an hour to reach takes an hour or more.  One needs to stay focused on the immediate and control longing for coffee or beer.
Something that surprised me was how challenging a high wind can be in those circumstances.  There were two days of strong winds, strong enough to slow me down, even stop me in gusts, and to redirect me when I was sailing with it on the beam.  That wind left me dry, discouraged, and doubtful of my ability to continue.  I remember reading years ago that some winds seem to change the body´s chemistry a bit, and thoughts of the hot winds in North Africa and the mediterranean came back to me.  On the other hand, after two days the wind was gone and the walking was lovely.  As you can see I still haven´t arrived at a consistent, integrated view of the meseta.

Creating Spanish

Between Najera and Santo Domingo de Calzada there is an opportunity to visit San Millan and the Monasteries of Suso and Yuso. Both are fascinating but it is at Yuso, lower down a hill in San Millan, that one finds the artifacts that made this a UNESCO World Heritage sight. You can see a complete, multi-volume, large format bible here, hand transcribed and stored in its original rack.
But the key is the marginal notations which contain the earliest examples of written Castillian, what became Spanish, and Basque.
This takes you just off the Camino but a shared taxi will drop you and return (bringing you pack) in time to drop you on the Camino again without losing a day. Wonderful!

Gregorian Chant

One of my hopes was to experience the Liturgy of the Hours in one of its spiritual homes, the monastery of Santo Domingo de Silos. This is a centre for the perfection of Gregorian Chant in Spain. The bus left the station in Burgos at 17:30 sharp and passed through some wonderful hamlets and towns before arriving at de Silos at 18:45. The driver, both professional and kind, pointed out the unsigned hostel and indicated he would pick folks up at 08:00 sharp the next morning. There was just time to settle into the hostel and race to the Monastery Church for Vespers. A wonderful experience. Then down to the restaurant attached to the hotel for meal of local produce cooked in local fashion (delicious) before heading back for Compline. A few hours sleep, but more than the monks, then back for Vigils. A wonderful experience.

Burgos

When you walk (part of) the Camino, make time for a couple of rest days in Burgos. The Cathedral is famous and really takes several half days to begin to absorb. However, there is a great deal more. In addition to the many monuments - the castle, the city museum, other churches and monasteries - just strolling beside the river and pausing for chocolate con churro (try the restaurant behind the theatre) is a restful delight. It is a good place to replenish supplies as well.

Spirit of the Camino

Sitting in the quiet, sheltered square of a small village on the Way, admiring the end of October roses around the church and nibbling ripe figs from the trees on the square. It is easy to get wrapped up in destinations and schedules but the point for me is the journey and this was a great, unscheduled moment.

A community in formation

For most of the last few weeks, about 400 Km, I have been walking with 3 great young people from France and Germany. We met in a hostel and after an evening of chatting the next morning they invited me to walk with them. From time to time one or more of us will take an alternative route but we have evolved a practice of always staying in the municipal hostel so it is easy to find each other again.
What is more important is that, at any one moment there is likely to be between 2 and 8 other folks walking with us. Some sprint ahead, some slow down so they are only with us for a day or two.
More poignantly, someone will develop an injury and have to go home as happened twice this past week. More happily today, someone who had taken time to heal caught up to us to great rejoicing.
One of the great cultural aspects of the Camino is this inclusive community ethic. I have heard some very fine folks opine that walking the Way by oneself is the authentic way. It is certainly an authentic way. But when I see how much I am learning from my companions (and I hope vice versa); when I remember the infrastructure at Le Puy for gathering medieval pilgrims into groups for safety; and when I think back to Canterbury Tales, I am convinced that the community element of the Camino is an authentic part of the experience.

Approaching

There is an Advent feel to the Camino. Much of the walk is spent contemplating an approach. From the time one first sees the Pyrenees in the distance several (in my case many) days pass before you begin the ascent. Yesterday on several occasions a blurred image on a distant hill gradually emerged as a medieval village before I found myself walking through it an hour or more later. Today the mist of a rainy day gradually revealed a lovely town. This sense of approach in the physical landscape is echoed in my emotional and spiritual landscape.

Pyrenees

The Pyrenees loom forbiddingly for every pilgrim, especially in the guidebooks and hostels. I planned to take the low road and avoid the issue. Fortunately the warden at the hostel on St Jean talked me out of it. He pointed out that 500 people take the Route Napolean every day in the peak season and that it makes a long day but not an especially difficult one. I compromised and sent my pack by baggage transport to Roncevalles, walking with just a day pack. Long but enjoyable with great views. Looking back I realize that the reports of difficulty came from folks who had read about it while everyone I spoke to who had walked it said long but not a problem if the weather is ok. Must be a lesson in there somewhere.

X is my friend

The way marking on the Chemin de Saint Jacques is terrific. However there are several systems in play. One is the Grand Randonee system of hiking trails. The GR65 follows the Chemin but misses some urban points of interest. It is accurately way marked with white and red bars. The Chemin uses yellow bars. Horizontal bars indicate "keep going straight"; add a vertical at one end and an arrow head at the other and you have a turn sign; but the one I rely on most is the X, meaning wrong way. At a multiway intersection I find the X more reassuring than the horizontals.

The Best Camino Advice I Received

1 Baron Rothschild, asked how he had prospered in the 1920s and 30s financial meltdown, replied "I always sold too soon". That is how I am
deciding when to stop for the day.
2. Churchill. "the only thing I learned in the army was never miss a chance to visit the WC" or words to that effect.
3 A pilgrim friend, "just take it a day at a time".

Steel or synthetics

I have seen 4 approaches to using arms to assist legs in walking to Santiago.
Quite a few folks travel with no device. This requires strength, but especially balance, particularly on the steep, rough trails from Le Puy for about 100 km.
A lot of pilgrims travel with a traditional wooden staff. I am pretty sure this represents respect for tradition asmuch as need for an assist. Both these groups move very well.
There are also 2 types of modern walking pole in use. The steel tip variety really dig in on soft or loose surfaces and provide propulsion and balance. With the rain we have had there has been a softening of hard packed dirt surfaces which has led to the washing of loose stone onto the path so steel tips give a great advantage.
I use a synthetic "rubber" tip. The poles are a gift from my wife and family, their way of saying "Go and pursue this dream of yours with our support". I wake up in a strange bed, in a strange town surrounded by new friends or strangers and the sight of those poles stiffens my backbone and softens my heart. I wouldn't change them for anything.
However, if you are buying poles for yourself or a loved one, look for a quick change connector between tip and shaft so the tips can be switched when the track changes.

Well I am through Haute Loire and on my way through Lozere.  We have been getting a lot of rain so I have been staying in hotels ra ther than hostels, which open later and don't give enough time to dry clothes.  The exceptions have been farm hostels which have been great.  One of the great aspects of this is the camaraderie as people get to know each other and compare notes.

I have posted a picture separately.  It is thought to be a Templar post that has gone through many phases until now it is a coop hostel run and supplied by 26 farm families in the neighborhood.  A beautiful place with amazing food.

I have been going much slower than planned - shin splint - so will soon leap south to walk the last 100 km before St. Jean.

Le Sauvage

I'm posting from Saugues, a very nice little town of 2K mid way through the highest climb on this part of the Camino, 500 metres yesterday over a 13 km hike, another 330 metres tomorow over 20 km.  It is interesting to see the effects of generational change in this part of the world.  Every hamlet and village I passed through had homes, farms and shops for sale and this town has many stores closed.  Kids moving to the city.

However, the Way of Ste. Jacques is reviving things quite a bit.  Lots of pellerin on the roads, many special events and attractions, and in a town this size, a shop with a knowledgeable owner that was a regular shoe store doing not too much business that now has half the store dedicated to hiking equipment of high quality and propering.  The way marking is very good but you have to be careful; the Ste Jacques path is newly marked with yellow/gold marks and signs but there is another system of hiking trails with similar marks.  best to watch for both the Camino marks and the GR65 white and red marks as well.

Also, to my surprise, a 13th century church with an altar to Ste Noel Chabanal, one of the Canadian Martyrs, who was born here.

Hints for those contemplating a similar journey:  bring 2 MEC super absorbant towels, one for you and 1 for squeezing laundry, it is hard to get things dry.  Bring a light cup or water bottle in addition to a hydration system, lots of potable water but the fountains are constructed in such a way that you need a cup.  I brought a few energy bars to help me keep going these first few days and I am very glad I did.

Dentelle and Lentilles

A beautiful day in Le Puy en Velay.  I spent most of it walking about to see the sights and clear my head after the long trip.  I visited Saint-Michel d'Aiguilhe (www.rochersaintmichel.fr), a chapel on a high basalt pillar, reminiscent of Meteora.

The two regional specialities seem to be lace, workshops, galleries, and lessons everywhere, and lentils, a vqriety grown locally and cooked with local recipes - delicious.

There is a strong push to develop the pellerin market at the cathedral so I went for a cafe and welcome, both fun - recommended if you come through here.

Tomorow I walk.

You will be able to follow my pilgrimage on this gps page:


http://share.findmespot.com/shared/faces/viewspots.jsp?glId=0pWcQmqWTsz9YqkrGXakHmWPDEvbgFG8D

I'm off then, to quote the title of  Hape Kerkling's memoir of the Camino.  It is the best book of its type I have read.  I have finished my preparation with 4 days on the Ridge Road trail in the Gatineau Park.  I wasn't able to last for the 6 hours, 25 km that was my target but it went ok.  I will probably be a 20 km per day guy and bus or train over a couple of hundred kms during my walk.

I leave Ottawa Sept. 19, get to Le Puy on the 20th, spend the 21st initiating things and getting the cobwebs out, and set off on the 22nd.

I will do my best to keep up progress reports and observations as I go along.

I want to thank everyone who encouraged and contributed, especially:

• my family for the poles, the pack, the time and the love;
• Nancy, Dan and Jessie for the ear plugs and shell;
• Bob and Jan for the chocolate;
• Ailsa for the laundry kit;
• my friends in Faith and Light and the OMI lay associates for their prayers;
• Father Robert for the gentle teasing;
• and everyone for their patience with my focusing on preparation.