Between Najera and Santo Domingo de Calzada there is an opportunity to visit San Millan and the Monasteries of Suso and Yuso. Both are fascinating but it is at Yuso, lower down a hill in San Millan, that one finds the artifacts that made this a UNESCO World Heritage sight. You can see a complete, multi-volume, large format bible here, hand transcribed and stored in its original rack.
But the key is the marginal notations which contain the earliest examples of written Castillian, what became Spanish, and Basque.
This takes you just off the Camino but a shared taxi will drop you and return (bringing you pack) in time to drop you on the Camino again without losing a day. Wonderful!
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