Meseta

I have been holding off reflecting on the Meseta because my feelings keep changing.  Brierly calls it ¨Sublime¨  in his guide book.  Most of the pilgrims I have spoken with called it boring.  On the whole I side with Brierly.  It is like all the great Bread Baskets I suppose, certainly it took me back to Saskatchewan when I worked there.  If anyone has experience outdoors in Ukraine or Argentina it would be great to hear views.
One thing I noticed walking, in comparison to riding on a rail cart, is that places don´t approach, they almost seem to recede like a mirage.  A town you think will take half an hour to reach takes an hour or more.  One needs to stay focused on the immediate and control longing for coffee or beer.
Something that surprised me was how challenging a high wind can be in those circumstances.  There were two days of strong winds, strong enough to slow me down, even stop me in gusts, and to redirect me when I was sailing with it on the beam.  That wind left me dry, discouraged, and doubtful of my ability to continue.  I remember reading years ago that some winds seem to change the body´s chemistry a bit, and thoughts of the hot winds in North Africa and the mediterranean came back to me.  On the other hand, after two days the wind was gone and the walking was lovely.  As you can see I still haven´t arrived at a consistent, integrated view of the meseta.

Creating Spanish

Between Najera and Santo Domingo de Calzada there is an opportunity to visit San Millan and the Monasteries of Suso and Yuso. Both are fascinating but it is at Yuso, lower down a hill in San Millan, that one finds the artifacts that made this a UNESCO World Heritage sight. You can see a complete, multi-volume, large format bible here, hand transcribed and stored in its original rack.
But the key is the marginal notations which contain the earliest examples of written Castillian, what became Spanish, and Basque.
This takes you just off the Camino but a shared taxi will drop you and return (bringing you pack) in time to drop you on the Camino again without losing a day. Wonderful!

Gregorian Chant

One of my hopes was to experience the Liturgy of the Hours in one of its spiritual homes, the monastery of Santo Domingo de Silos. This is a centre for the perfection of Gregorian Chant in Spain. The bus left the station in Burgos at 17:30 sharp and passed through some wonderful hamlets and towns before arriving at de Silos at 18:45. The driver, both professional and kind, pointed out the unsigned hostel and indicated he would pick folks up at 08:00 sharp the next morning. There was just time to settle into the hostel and race to the Monastery Church for Vespers. A wonderful experience. Then down to the restaurant attached to the hotel for meal of local produce cooked in local fashion (delicious) before heading back for Compline. A few hours sleep, but more than the monks, then back for Vigils. A wonderful experience.

Burgos

When you walk (part of) the Camino, make time for a couple of rest days in Burgos. The Cathedral is famous and really takes several half days to begin to absorb. However, there is a great deal more. In addition to the many monuments - the castle, the city museum, other churches and monasteries - just strolling beside the river and pausing for chocolate con churro (try the restaurant behind the theatre) is a restful delight. It is a good place to replenish supplies as well.